You can find a video of the beehive technique here
Susan is the one who came up with this technique but I did not see a tutorial on her site so I have given the above one by Pritesh.
I found that the beehive unwinds easily and when used as a filler in large areas tends to detract from its beauty, however when quilling the above I managed to make it hold its shape. The following are the secrets to success.
- Smaller sub-coils look nicer than large sub-coils as the outer coils start unwinding fast and loose shape making them look more like breaking waves.
- I usually insert the quilling needle at a length that will allow me to make about 4 to 6 twists (full clockwise turns) for filling large areas and 3 to 4 twists for filling smaller areas.
- Equal spaced quilling makes better beehive strips. That is after the first sub-coil which I quill counting the turns, I insert the needle at a distance, slightly less than half the length of the first, as you will be quilling practically double strips for the rest of the way.
- Stop turning the needle just before the subcoil you are quilling touches the previous one as this will reduce it curling into the other coils.
- After you quill each sub coil, hold it on the quilling needle for about 3 seconds to reduce it unwinding. This helps it hold the shape better.
- Arrange the coils in its natural shape. That is if it is coiling then coil it in a circle and insert it into the space to be filled.
- Glue every sub coil to the backing.
- Use forceps and arrange the coils and if some have unwound use forceps and wind it back when gluing.
- When gluing push the coils close to each other. Do not leave too much space.
- If there are empty spaces quill single sub coils and insert and glue to fill the gaps.
- Hold each sub-coil down till it is stuck to the backing. If large area, hold it down with your palm till it is stuck. This will prevent further unwinding.
- All these gluing tips are not required when you stabilize the beehive by encircling it like I did in quilled tree landscape.